Revert "Compile with direct_link=true (#28357)" and "Respect MB_COLORIZE_LOGS...

Revert "Compile with direct_link=true (#28357)" and "Respect MB_COLORIZE_LOGS and MB_EMOJI_IN_LOGS environment variables (#31612)" (#31732)

This can cause environment variables set at compile time to affect runtime,
cf. https://github.com/metabase/metabase/issues/30518.

We keep the changes to JVM options and logging startup time, since they
were independently useful.

This reverts commit e3285698 and commit 380cd8a3.